This week’s picture is brought to you by Ben.
This monster comes from the Newnan, Georgia area. Great catch Ben!

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Most of the time we think of stripping streamers through deep pools or across deep runs but I think I’ve had just as much success, if not more, hitting the shallow water near banks and pulling streamers across relatively shallow riffles.

Trout that are feeding aggressively often move to shallow water to do so. This seems to be especially true of brown trout. Consequently, it’s best to target the aggressive fish in the shallows rather than spending a lot of time casting to fish that are resting or just occasionally feeding in deep water. Fish in shallow water have to make their mind up faster since they can’t see the streamer from a great distance like they can in a slow deep pool.

I like to cast streamers across at the opposite bank if I’m wading or alternately at both banks if I’m drifting and can do so.

Cast as close to the bank as you can, if not right up onto the shore. You’ll get many strikes on the first 2 or 3 strips as the streamer is swimming from shallow to deep.

Also, try to pull streamers across moderately shallow riffles when possible. Fish that are lying in such water are usually doing so because they are aggressively feeding.

Hit the shallows the next time you streamer fish for more chances at aggressive fish.

This week’s picture is brought to you by Mike.
Sweet catch from Erie, PA on a beautiful fall day. Thanks Mike!

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Late Fall and early Winter, before ice covers the water, is an absolutely amazing time to fish lakes for trout.

Often times fish will move into shallow water and will feed very aggressively in preparation for a long winter. Target water that is 10 feet deep or less and try stripping larger than normal streamers, leeches, or flashy buggers on an intermediate or slow sink line. I really like to use yellow or chartreuse crystal buggers, white crystal buggers, red crystal buggers, or patterns like the orange blossom special and autumn splendor at this time of year.

Fall fish are also likely to feed pretty consistently throughout the day if conditions are decent so this is a good time to spend quite a bit of time on the water. Be sure that the fish you are targeting are not Fall spawners. If this is the case they are likely to be in tributaries and not even in the lake that you are fishing.

Be sure to dress for the weather and just get out there. Catching fish can always keep you warm or at least make you forget that you are freezing.

This week’s picture is brought to you by Danny.
This is a picture of my Dad’s catch on our steelhead trip to Pennsylvania this past spring. The fish weighed in at a whopping 13 1/2 pounds and was the biggest catch of the trip.

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I noticed when I read last weeks email that these tips are actually starting to get pretty lengthy. That’s not bad if it’s good info, which I hope it is, but I’m going to keep it a little more to the point this week.

Most fish, whether they are trout, warm water species, or even most salt water fish, spend most of their lives near the bottom. Dry flies are obviously great when they are working, but because fish are on the bottom most of the time, the most effective way to present a fly is to get a nymph, streamer, and other wet fly down to the fish near the bottom.

Use heavy weighted nymphs or plenty of shot to get them down. With streamers use a sinking line or sink tip line, possibly with split shot as well, to keep them swimming close to bottom.

Make it easy for the fish to eat your fly by getting it right in front of them and you should catch more fish.

This week’s picture is brought to you by Joe.
Hook in Face! The hook actually went through twice. A whole new meaning to crimping your barbs. Luckily I crimped this one!!!

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The last tip focused on hooking fish effectively. This one hopefully helps you to play and land fish once they’re on the line.

Don’t allow any slack & don’t pull too hard - Seems simple enough, but especially when using small barbless hooks, a fish can come off the hook with even just a split second of slack. Once the line is tightened to set the hook a steady and constant pressure must be maintained throughout the fight. Too much pressure can pull the hook through the soft mouth of some fish and not enough pressure can allow for slack, which allows the hook to back out. A general rule is to maintain a moderate bend on the rod no matter what the fish does. This ensures that the rod is exerting some pressure but not too much pressure. Give line if the bend gets too severe and pull line if the bend on the rod begins to straighten. Getting the fish on the reel to take in and to allow line to be taken out against the drag helps to minimize human error.

Keep the rod perpendicular to the fish - With the exception of very large fish on heavy line that you fight with the butt section of the rod, fish are best played with the rod at a right angle to the fish. This maximizes the shock absorbing capabilities of the rod and helps you to minimize the formation of slack. Pointing the rod at the fish is always bad because it means that only the leader and line absorb the shock of the fighting fish and so it is an almost sure way to break off or pull the hook out of fish.

Use a softer rod - Many people assume that a stiffer rod will fight fish better. This isn’t always true. You certainly need enough backbone to be able to direct the fish where you need it to go but a little softer rod absorbs more shock and helps you to maintain steady pressure on the fish. A stiff rod will often “bounce” fish by pulling a bit too hard and then allowing a little slack to form as shock waves bounce the rod.

Keep the fish off balance - Especially in heavy currents, I’ve seen fish and fisher come to a stalemate situation where the fish just stays in one place and the angler can’t exert enough force to move the fish without risking a breakoff. The key to solving these situations is to change the angle that you’re using to pull on the fish. Every time you change the angle you put the fish off balance and can move it your way a little. I like to change the angle of pull anytime the fish seems to make a hard steady run or seems to find a current it can use in its favor. If you do this constantly throughout the fight, especially when the fish seems to take the upper hand, you’re likely to be able to land the fish much sooner.

Hurry the fight; Don’t hurry the landing - For the benefit of the fish and to minimize the chances for problems, try to land all fish as quickly as possible, however, don’t rush the last few seconds when you have the fish on a short line. I like to use a net with a large opening and to prepare the fish for one last smooth and steady pull towards the net. If the fish just isn’t ready, however, let it run and try it again. When the line is short the problem’s of absorbing shock or pulling too hard are magnified so be careful and don’t rush it at this point.

Handle the fish correctly - Once the fish is landed take care to keep it wet and to return it to the water with as little stress as possible. I like to take photos of fish but I’d rather release a fish than to cause it severe trauma just to get the shot. If you are taking pictures it is always best to use a net with a large rubber, rubberized, or soft netting material. Keep the fish in the water until you are ready for the shot and always get your hands wet before taking the picture. When it is time to release the fish always place the fish in the water gently and make sure not to allow the fish to swim off until it is ready to do so on its own. You may need to move the fish gently forward and back to get water through the gills and oxygen back into the fish’s system. Many fish won’t survive if they are just tossed back in the water. Take care of the fish and they will take care of you the next time you’re on the water.